How to Clean & Maintain BDSM Toys Properly
In the process of building a toy collection for serious kinks? Well, even if you're fairly new to these carnal pleasures, you may already know that cleaning and maintaining BDSM toys is quite important when it comes to hygiene. What you might not know, though, is that it also affects how long your toys last, how safe they are to use, how they feel on the body, and whether they're still fit for purpose the next time someone is tied down and waiting.
With tips inspired by our experienced domination escorts in London, this guide explains how to clean and maintain different BDSM toys properly, from leather restraints and bondage rope to gags, dildos, hoods, masks, metal toys, silicone toys, and all the other filthy items hiding in your drawer.
Contents:
- Why Cleaning BDSM Toys is Important
- First, Know What Your Toy Is Made From
- How to Clean Dildos, Plugs and Insertable Toys
- Cleaning Mouth Gags Properly
- Leather Cuffs, Collars, Harnesses and Restraints
- How to Clean Bondage Rope
- Paddles, Crops, Floggers and Canes
- Handcuffs, Spreader Bars and Metal Restraints
- Masks, Hoods, Blindfolds and Latex Gear
- Storing BDSM Toys Properly
- Keep Your Toy Bag Ready for Mistress
Why Cleaning BDSM Toys is Important
BDSM toys touch skin, sweat, saliva, lube, genitals, mouths, backsides, feet, bedsheets, hotel floors and plenty of other places that make regular cleaning rather important. It matters even more if toys are shared between partners, used on different body areas, or brought into longer sessions where sweat, lubricant and bodily fluids have time to build up. Insertable toys, gags, cuffs, hoods, rope and impact toys all need different care because they're made from different materials and used in very different ways.
So, should a silicone plug be given the same treatment as a leather collar? No. Should a ball gag be cleaned like a wooden paddle? Definitely not. Does a latex hood need more care than a metal spreader bar? Yes! The point is, BDSM toys are made from different materials, which means the cleaning and maintenance should be different too. Treating everything the same way is how toys start smelling strange, cracking, rusting, fraying or becoming unpleasant against the body.
Still learning the basics of kink safety? Start with our guide to safe BDSM exploration before building a toy bag full of things you only half understand.
First, Know What Your Toy Is Made From
The first rule of cleaning BDSM toys is simple: know the material before you start scrubbing, soaking or spraying anything.
Non-porous materials are usually easier to clean properly, and these include good-quality silicone, stainless steel, glass, aluminium and hard ABS plastic. They don't absorb fluids in the same way porous materials can, which makes them much better suited to toys that touch intimate areas.
Porous materials, on the other hand, need more thought. Leather, certain rubbers, jelly materials, untreated wood, fabric, rope, faux fur, foam padding and cheap soft plastics can hold onto moisture, smells, lube and bodily fluids more easily. Some can be cleaned well enough for personal use, but they're not always ideal for sharing unless you use barriers or keep them strictly for one person. You need to be careful with powered toys, too. Vibrating plugs, electronic toys, remote-control devices and anything with buttons, charging ports or motors should never be thrown into water unless you know it's fully waterproof.
If you don't know what a toy is made from, be cautious. If it smells strongly of chemicals, feels sticky, has no care instructions or came from a somewhat dodgy retailer, it's worth questioning whether it belongs anywhere near your body.
How to Clean Dildos, Plugs and Insertable Toys
Anything that goes inside the body needs the most serious cleaning. Dildos, butt plugs, prostate toys, anal hooks, strap-on attachments, vibrating insertables, anal beads, urethral sounds and similar toys should be cleaned before and after use.
For non-motorised silicone, glass or stainless steel toys, warm water and mild, fragrance-free soap are usually enough for regular cleaning. Wash the full surface, including the base, ridges, textured areas and any curves where lube can collect. Rinse properly so no soap residue is left behind, then dry the toy with a clean towel or leave it somewhere clean to air dry.
Some non-motorised silicone, glass and steel toys can be sterilised more thoroughly, but only if the manufacturer says that it's safe. Don't assume every toy can be boiled, soaked or cleaned with harsh products!
For motorised toys, avoid dunking them in water unless they're fully waterproof. Wipe them carefully with warm water and mild soap or a suitable toy cleaner, paying attention to seams, buttons, charging points and textured areas. Dry them completely before putting them away.
Anal toys deserve a little more care for obvious reasons. Use condoms over them if sharing, if the material is porous, or if the toy is moving between different body areas. And although it's a basic rule, we do want to remind you to never move an anal toy to vaginal use without washing it thoroughly or changing the condom first.
Interested in restraint and insertable play together? Read our guide to bondage time limits before deciding that helplessness should last all evening.
Cleaning Mouth Gags Properly
A lot of beginners often forget about the cleaning and maintenance of their mouth gags, which never fails to surprise us. Surely something that deals with saliva, breath, lipstick, sweat, and pressure marks requires just as much attention as your other toys? Yes... of course they do. Ball gags, bit gags, ring gags, spider gags, panel gags, inflatable gags, penis gags and harness gags should all be cleaned after use.
Silicone ball gags are usually the easiest to handle. Remove the ball from the strap if possible, then wash the silicone part with warm water and mild soap or a body-safe toy cleaner. Rinse it thoroughly and let it dry completely before storing it.
If the strap is leather, do not soak the whole gag, and instead, clean the silicone and leather parts separately. Leather straps should be wiped with a slightly damp cloth, dried carefully, and treated with a leather-safe cleaner or conditioner when needed. Leather can dry, crack and stiffen if it's treated like plastic.
Fabric straps can absorb more moisture, so check whether they're removable and washable. If they cannot be washed properly, let them dry fully and be sensible about sharing them between people.
Ring gags and spider gags have extra corners, hinges and joins where saliva can collect. Pay attention to screws, rivets and metal fittings. If any part starts rusting, flaking, smelling strange or feeling rough against the mouth, it's time to retire it.
Leather Cuffs, Collars, Harnesses and Restraints
We love leather. It's gorgeous, classic and perfectly suited to BDSM, yes, but it does need proper care if you want it to last.
Collars, cuffs, harnesses, wrist restraints, ankle restraints, leashes, strap-on harnesses and leather body gear should never be soaked. Too much water can dry leather out, warp it, weaken stitching, damage padding and leave it stiff or cracked.
After use, wipe the surface with a lightly damp cloth, especially where the leather has touched skin, sweat or lubricant. If the session was especially sweaty, use a leather-safe cleaner rather than household sprays. Once the leather is clean and fully dry, apply a suitable conditioner occasionally to keep it supple.
Do not overdo the conditioner, as too much product can make it unpleasant to wear and can collect around buckles, stitching and padding. Also, pay attention to buckles, rivets, D-rings, clips and stitching. Sweat can collect around metal fittings, and weak stitching is not something you want to discover when someone is pulling against the cuffs. Check for cracks, loose hardware, stretched holes, sharp edges and rough patches before the next session begins.
Leather used around mouths, genitals or shared partners needs extra caution because it's porous and harder to disinfect fully. If you're using leather restraints professionally or with multiple partners, keep hygiene stricter, use barriers where possible, and avoid pretending a quick wipe solves everything.
Want to understand how restraint changes a session? Read our guide to Dom and sub dynamics before letting a collar do all the talking.
How to Clean Bondage Rope
Bondage rope is where cleaning gets a little more annoying, mainly because you can’t just treat every rope the same and hope for the best. Jute, hemp, cotton, nylon and synthetic rope all behave differently, and the wrong cleaning method can leave your rope stiff, fuzzy, weak, rough against the skin, or generally horrible to tie with.
Jute and hemp are the ones people tend to be most precious about, and for good reason. They feel brilliant in a proper bondage scene and grip real nicely when compared to cheap synthetic rope. The downside? Soaking natural fibre rope in too much water can change how it handles, shrink it, weaken it, or make it feel scratchier than it did before. If the rope has only been used over clean skin, you may not need to wash it every time. Airing it out properly can be enough after lighter restraint work. Hang it somewhere dry with decent airflow, let any sweat or moisture disappear, and make sure it's completely dry before you even think about putting it back in a drawer or rope bag.
If the rope has touched lube, bodily fluids, open skin, genitals, feet, or hotel floors, then yes, it needs proper cleaning. Natural rope can usually be hand-washed gently in cool or lukewarm water with a small amount of mild soap, then rinsed carefully and dried slowly. Don’t wring it out like a towel, and don’t blast it with heat because you’re impatient. Drying under light tension can help stop it kinking or shrinking too badly.
Cotton, nylon and other synthetic ropes are often easier to wash, which makes them useful for messier sessions. They still need to be dried properly, though. Damp rope left in a bag is asking for mildew, smells and a very unpleasant surprise next time you pull it out.
Before using rope again, run it through your hands and check it carefully. Look for fraying, broken fibres, hard knots, rough patches, discolouration, strange smells or anything that feels weaker than it should.
Trying to choose the right rope in the first place? Read our full guide to jute vs hemp rope for bondage.
Paddles, Crops, Floggers and Canes
Impact toys might not be going inside anyone, but that doesn’t mean they get to avoid cleaning. Paddles, crops, floggers, straps, canes, slappers and whips all pick up sweat, skin oil, lotion, lube, dust, body glitter, and whatever else ends up involved once the session gets going.
Wooden paddles should be wiped down after use and kept dry. Sealed wood is easier to look after because it does not absorb moisture as quickly as raw wood. If you own wooden paddles, check them before use for cracks, splinters, peeling varnish or rough edges. A paddle should hurt because Mistress is using it properly, not because a damaged bit of wood has caught the skin.
Leather paddles, straps and floggers need a little more care. Wipe them down after use, especially anywhere that has touched sweaty skin. If the leather starts feeling dry, stiff or tired, use a suitable leather conditioner. Just don’t drown it in product... too much conditioner can make leather greasy, heavy and unpleasant to handle.
Floggers deserve a proper check because sweat and residue can collect where the falls meet the handle. Hang them after use so the falls can dry neatly instead of twisting together. If the tails start cracking, shedding, sticking together or smelling strange, it's probably time to give them some attention before they end up feeling nasty against the body.
If an impact toy has touched broken skin or drawn blood, clean it immediately and be realistic about whether it can be properly disinfected. Some materials are fine for personal use but not ideal for sharing after that kind of contact.
If your favourite sessions leave you sore in all the right places, read our guide to healing after heavy impact play.
Handcuffs, Spreader Bars and Metal Restraints
Metal toys like handcuffs, chains, spreader bars, clamps, metal collars, hooks and locking restraints all feel like they should survive anything. But they still collect sweat, lube, skin oil and grime, and the moving parts can become a problem if you ignore them for too long.
After use, wipe metal toys down with a damp cloth and mild soap where needed, then dry them properly. Water sitting around hinges, screws, locks or joins can lead to rust, stiffness and awkward little failures at exactly the wrong moment.
For handcuffs, check the locking mechanism, keyholes, safety release, hinges and edges. If they stick, scrape, pinch, rust or need too much force to open and close, don’t use them until the issue is sorted. Being trapped in restraints is only fun when everyone can still get out of them safely.
Spreader bars should be checked at the connection points. The cuffs, clips, screws and adjustable sections need to move properly and lock securely. If there is padding, clean it according to the material. Leather padding, neoprene, vinyl and fabric all need slightly different care, so don’t treat them like plain metal.
Metal insertables, such as steel plugs or urethral sounds, are a different matter entirely. These need much stricter hygiene than external restraints. Clean them thoroughly before and after use, follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and inspect them carefully for rough seams, chips, scratches or sharp edges.
Masks, Hoods, Blindfolds and Latex Gear
Hoods and masks are some of the easiest toys to underestimate. They might not look messy after a session, but anything sitting against the face, mouth, eyes, hairline or neck can pick up sweat, skin oil, makeup, breath, saliva and general session heat rather quickly.
Fabric blindfolds and soft masks are usually the most straightforward if they can be washed. Check the label or maker’s instructions, wash them gently, and let them dry completely before storing. Anything that sits over the eyes should be kept properly clean, especially if it's being used on more than one person.
Leather masks and hoods should be wiped down rather than soaked. Focus on the inside areas that touch the face, mouth, chin and hairline. Once clean, let the piece dry fully before putting it away. If there are buckles, zips, eyelets or metal fittings, check around them because sweat and residue can build up there too.
Neoprene, spandex and synthetic hoods vary depending on the material, but most need gentle cleaning and proper drying. The main thing is not putting them away damp. A sweaty hood shoved straight into a drawer is not going to smell better by tomorrow. It will simply become tomorrow’s problem.
Latex hoods and masks need proper latex care, but we won’t go too deep here because we already have a full guide on that. Just remember to wash gently, dry completely, avoid oils, keep it away from heat and sunlight, and store it properly so it doesn't stick to itself or stain. For the full details, read our Mistress’s guide to latex care and storage before ruining an expensive hood through bad storage.
Storing BDSM Toys Properly
Storing your toys correctly is rather important, since different materials can react badly with each other, hold onto smells, collect dust, bend out of shape, or become damaged before you even use them again.
Insertable toys should be completely dry before storage. Keep silicone, glass, steel and plastic toys in separate bags where possible, especially if they're touching other toys. Some softer materials can react with each other over time, becoming sticky, cloudy or marked. If you’ve ever pulled a toy out of a drawer and wondered why it suddenly feels tacky, poor storage may be the reason.
Leather should be stored somewhere cool, dry and away from direct sunlight. Don’t crush cuffs, collars or harnesses underneath heavy toys, because padding can flatten and straps can bend into awkward shapes. Floggers are usually better hung or laid flat so the falls don’t twist and dry in strange positions.
Rope should be fully dry, neatly coiled and stored somewhere breathable. Metal toys should be dried properly and kept away from damp. Latex should be stored separately and carefully, especially lighter colours, because staining and sticking can become a real problem.
Keep Your Toy Bag Ready for Mistress
Wash what needs washing. Wipe what needs wiping. Dry everything properly. Keep porous toys separate where needed. Check for damage before use. And if something smells wrong, feels sticky, looks cracked or seems impossible to clean properly, stop trying to keep it alive out of sentiment.
Because if you are planning to present your toy bag to one of our London Mistresses, you want it to look like you know what you are doing. A clean, organised collection tells Mistress you take the session seriously before she has even picked up the first toy.
Still building your BDSM collection? Start with our guide to the different types of impact play, then decide exactly how you would like Mistress to leave her mark.
